A couple months ago, my friend Siena--to
this minute, I'm sure as common courtesy, not really because she
thought I would say yes--was talking one night to another friend
and then turned to me to ask
"Do you want to go to Montreal this
summer?"
I jumped. Certainly, I love the
group vacation...but, I love the group vacation even more
when I don't plan shit. Here's what I mean:
normally, I am the guy that puts the trip together. I
don't really know when it started, but whether it was the South
Beach trips, the beach vacations, even the Kings Dominion trips,
I fell in love with being the organizer for these big
event/parties. I don't think I loved it so much as loved
being a part of it; it just felt like the
shove-following-the-push moment always occurred around the time
that I got involved, forcing me into the planner role.
As such, I haven't gone on a trip like
this in many years where I literally had no responsibilities.
Well, there were a couple: bring your passport, bring some
cash, have a good time. Never had to pick the restaurant;
never had to pick the club. No logistics--someone else was
doing the hotel and transportation issues. I couldn't even
be relied on to lend helpful knowledge about the city to others;
I had never been to Montreal.
This was gonna be cake. Sort of.
First and foremost, Siena was a great
organizer. She put together an itinerary that was easy,
easy-going and easy-listening; she rounded up eight friends (to
start, at least...more on this later), saved us some costs by
doing the D.C.-to-Manchester flight to save some bucks and then
had us bunch up four to a room to save even more cash. The
people were all pretty chill and cool with doing lots or little
each day; and, the tunes were great throughout, be it in the car
on the road from Manchester to Montreal, or in the hotel room,
where one guy was wise enough to bring along a boom box for
maximum comfyness. (Yes, that's a word, because Chuck
Longer said so.)
I could bog this down with details
regarding the team of individuals, but I won't...needless to
say, they were all 20-something (I was the old man on this
voyage) go-getters that knew how to "hang out." Four of
our eight went to McGill, the university located in the middle
of downtown Montreal, so we had built-in tour guides, which made
me very happy. Because some of them still have friends in
the city, our group swelled from eight to 20 at points; this was
a bit unmanageable, but I wasn't in charge and I was happy to
not complain about any of it, since I hadn't done shit to plan
it out. The hotel was simple, a Holiday Inn sitting on
Sherbrooke Avenue, no frills and only $30/person/night.
So, how was Montreal? I'll break
it down like this:
Food: spectacular
No Bellview Travelogue can pass without
a review of the food, and here was maybe my favorite part about
Montreal; it was really a great reminder of what I miss so
dearly about life in San Francisco, great food at your name
places or your no-name places. The mix of cuisines, the
sheer volume of eateries, the service, the prices...man, you
can't really go wrong with the chow in Montreal. Certainly
it helped that Siena and the other McGilligans (I made that
up...I'm sorry) knew the lay of the land well enough to have
picked some down-homey places; with a couple of diners and a
couple of good dinner spots, I was very impressed with their
favorites...but, more so on the two occasions when clearly no
one had any idea where to go and we just ended up at two places,
both of which were fantastic.
How fantastic? You know how
vegetables and I are not good friends, barely even casual
acquaintances? Well friends, I had the best vegetable soup
(ahem, soupe des légumes) I've ever tasted. I couldn't get
enough of it. So freakin' good. I kept reaching for
other people's spoons, just so I could help them finish off
their soup. Wow. The only downside to the food all
weekend was the much overhyped Montreal dish known as poutine.
Poutine is essentially a plate of fries, gravy and cheese curd
melted over the top and then all of it is just kind of swirled
together in what looks like a pile of shit. Or, as we call
it here, cheese fries. The McGilligans complained that I
shouldn't judge the two dishes of poutine that I did have
because they didn't use real cheese curd; my thinking was that I
might be better off without it altogether.
Shopping: happiness
Even for a professed non-shopper like
myself, I had to admit that the shopping for guys and girls was
pretty good, for a few different reasons. Depending on the
year, the most important reason would be the weight of your
gringo dollar versus the Canadian dollar; this year, I was
getting 84 cents to the Canadian dollar, which isn't bad but not
nearly as good as two or three years ago. The stores are
the real highlight, though; even in the downtown area where we
were staying, the shops were a mix of local specialty and
regional or national/international chain, but all of them had
clothes that made you feel like you were shopping in a culture
center like Italy or New York, for much less cash than you might
spend in a high-end shop in Milan. (You're right, I've
never been shopping in Milan, but play along, dammit!) I
know a couple of people that have gone on shopping trips to
Montreal and now I can see why--lots of cool clothes, not bad
prices, lots of original stuff that you certainly won't find in
many other places.
Jazz: no freakin' idea
I mentioned to some of you that I was
going to Montreal for the International Jazz Festival, which was
in its final weekend when we showed up on July 8th.
However, let it be known: we didn't see a single jazz
performance while we were in town. Some of this was
timing--we rolled into town on Friday afternoon, and instead of
hitting the bricks most of us hit the hotel room sleeper sofa to
rest up for the nighttime. Some of this was the
weather--it rained all day on Saturday, which forced us to shop
all day. I have heard great things about this jazz
festival, so this will be reason enough to go back to town to
check out some great music another year.
"Sights": ehh
As usual, I spent an inordinate amount
of free time browsing the local populace--men and women, to get
a fair sense of the looks of the peeps strolling around
Montreal--and I am saddened to say that the locals were a mixed
bag. I was coming in thinking that the sights would
measure up to Rome, or SoBe, or NYC, but I have to admit that
this is a mistake. Certainly I saw beautiful people in
town, but for every Salma wannabe there was a Plain Jane
standing somewhere nearby. For the men, my new friends
Ariella and Rita both indicated that the male sights in town
were nothing special either; this intrigued me, because I
thought the guys in general weren't too bad. Shows you
what I know. One thing I did make note of: no
kidding, it seemed like everyone was wearing expensive, very
cool eyeglasses. I can't figure out why this is, but being
blind myself I take note of these things and it was inescapable
all weekend.
French Canadians: palatable
Even when I went to France almost 10
years ago, I thought the Frenchies had a little something to be
desired; of course, my Franglish accent probably had something
to do with it. The Frenchies of Montreal are quite the
opposite, at least in the limited time I spent with them; we
went out one night to a more French-speaking part of town (i.e.,
no "flip" menus where you could easily pick out the English on
what you were really ordering) and everyone was very helpful in
guiding our Yankee asses through the meal. It's also weird
watching everyone in town say "Bonjour allo!" every time you
meet someone. It's almost like they say both French and
English to give you the chance to respond in whatever is most
comfortable to the respondent...kind of cool, but it must be
tiresome to be a French Canadian and always introduce yourself
or say hello in two languages right off the bat.
Strip clubs: everywhere
San Francisco is supposedly the most
restaurant-populated city in the U.S., even more so than New
York City. (I think I read that in the Zagat's guide a
couple years back.) In that same vein, Montreal has got to
have more sex and strip clubs per square block than any other
city I have been to (no, I have not been to Vegas yet).
Seriously, every time I turned the corner, sometimes in-between
coffee lounges and your local pharmacy, you'd have a strip club.
Women dance on poles in this town like no other, and worse, it
seems like little Bobby has to grow up in a place where
strippers, pictures of strip clubs and flyers for strip joints
are damn near everywhere. My boy Greg "Abes" Abel told of
a bachelor party that took place in Montreal; hell, now I can
see why.
Nightlife: incomplete data
Me being me, all I kept asking about on
Friday was how hard we were gonna go out on Friday night--what
clubs, what kind of cover, what afterhours clubs, where we were
gonna get breakfast the next morning at sunrise. Only a
couple of souls were even awake and sober by the time 4 AM came
to pass, but Friday night at Tokyo Nightclub was a blowout.
Good music, great crowd, cheap to get in, they seemed to be
serving booze right up until its 3 AM closing time. The
action on the street was nice, with lots of folks spilling out
into the street to chill, eat pizza, hang out. Good times.
The next night, we went to a beer garden (this felt VERY similar
to any frat party I ran into my first year at school) and I
spent most of the night sitting in a corner, talking to nobody
in particular. We didn't really go out too much, though,
so I will need another trip to really gauge this category enough
to answer. Even in my limited contact, though, Montreal
ain't no South Beach in terms of its club scene. Hell, it
ain't even San Francisco, for all I could tell.
Overall: it's the people
Sure, with any trip where you are forced
into spending three days with the same people, you better hope
those people are easy to get along with or you can expect to be
in some major pain. Siena did a great job of pulling
together the bodies that would have good times together on this
trip. Lots of great conversation was had, about everything
and mostly about nothing that makes any sense. One of the
guys on the trip, Andrew, brought along these walkie-talkies
that we used incessantly throughout the trip; clearly, I'm going
to have to pick up a couple of CBs to keep the good times
rolling during my next trip, because we got major mileage out of
those things as we polluted the radio waves. Everyone that
came along was a night owl; everyone seemed cool with a little
drinkie-drinkie in the room before going out at night. And
I think everyone made sure to laugh a ton during the weekend.
As an introduction to a city, I was
grateful to be along on this trip. This sets the table
nicely for a sequel trip in a year or two.
Random Bellviews, courtesy of Bell
and Longer Community Trust:
-
That Starburst
commercial--"Enrique...NOOOOO!!!!":
Opening Weekend
-
The New York Yankees, making it fun: $9.50 Show
-
"Mom's got steaks!"...which makes
you miss a wedding: Matinee
-
Living in a different city than your
wife: Rental
-
Working six softball games in 90°
heat for the 70-and-over Senior Softball League: Hard
Vice